The setting is spectacular with Chez DesLauriers, a white heritage home on Monk’s Head having a view over St. George’s Bay and Pomquet Beach with a view to Cape Breton. Old photographs and antique home items provide the décor in the tea room. There is lively atmosphere from visitors and locals enjoying the food and company. We enjoyed a great lunch of Fricot or Pate’ – both traditional Acadian dishes that I remember from my childhood.
Next door the Interpretive Centre describes the history, geology and formation of the area and the people who have lived here and their way of life. In the area behind the house the Pomquet Acadian Walking Trails are well marked and take you across the grassy cliffs with views of the ocean, wending through the forest, or down along the beach.
In August there are two special Lobster Roll dinners to look forward to.
It’s no wonder that the weather is a topic of conversation in Nova Scotia. In the past 3 weeks since the beginning of January 2014 we have seen province wide swings in the weather.
It started out with a blizzard – a total white out. This was followed by freezing rain and extreme ice conditions where roads and driveways were like a skating rink. Low temperatures continued for several days.
Then came the January thaw where we were back to spring jackets, the ground cleared, green grass and tips of bulbs coming up. It felt like spring – but don’t be fooled! Steady rain for 2 days melted most of the snow and ice. The rivers and streams had an ice breakup and swollen rivers and flooded fields and basements in low lying areas.
Last night, as predicted from the balmy day overnight we got 15 CM of snow – light powdery snow with huge flakes. Early morning everything has a fluffy blanket of snow and little wind so the branches of all the trees are outlined with snow.
Who knows what else the winter will bring but it is sure to be interesting. As I am publishing this there is a promised Nor’easter on the way to Nova Scotia with blizzard conditions. Will leave that for another day.
This autumn morning in Antigonish was a perfect mix of crisp fall day, a light wind and changing temperatures that brought mist rolling into the valley and rising and falling on the wind currents. The green fields, reds and golds of the trees peeked out or were hidden by the autumn mists.
My daughter visited us in Nova Scotia recently from Vancouver and top of her wish list was to have a lobster. It isn’t the lobster season in our area and although we could have a lobster dinner in a restaurant, or buy a lobster from a big chain grocery store that wasn’t the experience I wanted for her. I grew up eating lobsters fresh from the pound and boiled on the beach – or a feed of lobster on the back yard picnic table. No fancy dinner just butter for dipping and lots of newspaper and dripping juicy lobster.
Just 2KM past Peggy's Cove
Our chosen lobsters
Into the vat
Oysters on the half shell
View from picnic tables
View from picnic tables
Ryers Lobster Map
On a tip from my sister we found a great place that gave the real experience. Ryer Lobsters is just 2 KM past Peggy’s Cove when you are heading from the Halifax side, in the village of Indian Harbour. It would be easy to miss it but watch on the water side. On first site it just looks like a big shed. However this is a lobster pound with the fresh seawater flowing through a huge tank of live lobsters. We ordered our lobsters, weighed them out and Ryan popped them into the cauldron of boiling water. While we waited our 20 minutes we enjoyed delicious oysters on the half shell with tabasco and fresh lemon.
What a feast! Around the back there are picnic tables with a fantastic view of the harbour. The lobsters came fully cracked and easy to open but still all in a piece. Lobster bibs, picking tools and an incredible sweet taste of fresh lobster. This was the real thing! Just as good as at home in the backyard or on the beach. Unfortunately no license so if you want a beer you can take them home with you or to your picnic spot.
Ryer Lobsters is open year round. So if you are craving a lobster feast on your Nova Scotia travels head there for the real thing.