Tag Archives: Lighthouse

Off the Beaten Track on the Eastern Shore

Off the Beaten Track on the Eastern Shore

In October I was excited to go with a group of travel writers to visit the Eastern Shore of Nova Scotia.

SeaWind Landing Country Inn is certainly off the beaten track but well worth making this a destination.  The Inn is located in Charlos Cove on the Eastern Shore with ocean views and fresh air off the Atlantic. I had a cozy gable room on 2nd floor with an ocean view – a great spot to catch the spectacular sunrise next morning.  If you enjoy fine dining you are in for a gourmet experience.  Local seafood and produce are the star attractions.   The recipes are simply done to highlight the best flavor and presentation.  The dining room view of the ocean and the warm colors and ambiance makes this a treat for the senses. My breakfast favorite is the blueberry French toast.  There are several paths and trails leading down to the ocean and along the shore. Great for exploring.  The lounge area in the main building is comfortable for a group mix and mingle area with piano and drinks or to browse through the books and enjoy a drink from the well stocked bar.   There is also a small gift shop with local items.  The innkeepers, Dave and Anne Marie de Jongh are hospitable and knowledgeable of the area with suggestions on what to see and do based on your time and interests.

Our group went out on the fishing boat, “Get Kraken”, with Captain Damian  who expertly navigated us through the Sugar Islands, just off the coast – craggy rocky islands, wind swept trees, waves crashing over shoals and some sheltered sandy bays.  We sighted some playful seals.   The Berry Head Lighthouse and setting sun gave us some spectacular vistas while we enjoyed delicious snacks of Smoked Herring Fish Cakes and Digby Scallops prepared in the galley by Dave de Jongh, innkeeper of SeaWind Landing. A perfect way to enjoy in the tangy salt air along with a glass of wine.

For long sandy secluded beaches and interesting rock formations head to Tor Bay, a 15 minute drive from SeaWind Landing through Larry’s River.   If you are craving solitude and peace this is a great spot to take in the sea air.  Boardwalks, dunes, sea grasses and a variety of vegetation make for interesting nature exploration.

Jude Avery, a local historian gave us some insight to the history of the Acadian settlements along the Eastern Shore.  His recent book “The Forgotten Acadiens … a story of discovery” describes how the Acadiens came to settle in the Larry’s River area and how they have survived over the centuries.  The commemorative park “Parc de Nos Ancestres” in Larry’s River and Place Savalette National Historic Site, in Port Felix, commemorate this historic Acadien region.  Parc de Nos Ancestres has an anchor shaped set of stones painted with the history of the Acadiens in this region.

A visit to Guysborough community feels like a step back into the past.  The historical homes and churches show the prosperity of a past era when ship building and industry were an important part of this thriving town.   Now you can learn about this at the town museum which is set in the Old Court House.  The waterfront marina is usually busy in the summer but had suffered damage from the latest hurricane Dorian.  We enjoyed a delicious lunch at “Days Gone By” with lobster rolls, fish cakes and tempting fresh bakery deserts.

There is lots to see and do on the Eastern Shore – nature, hiking, history and culture – and don’t forget the food and drink!  On my next visit I would like to stay several days to be able to explore more of the area. 

Note: Destination Eastern and Northumberland Shores (DEANS) organized and sponsored this FAM Tour.  My lodging, activities, and food were compensated.

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Cape George Lighthouse

A beautiful 35 minute (53Km) drive from Antigonish will take you to Cape George Lighthouse overlooking St. George’s Bay.   Highway 337 winds through rolling agricultural lands and along the coast.  Scenic views abound and this drive is sometimes called the “Mini Cape”  or the “Mini Cabot Trail” and is part of the Sunrise Trail.

On a sunny day, enjoy views of Cape Breton Island and Prince Edward Island in the distance.  Perhaps you will see an eagle soaring above or below you and sea birds skimming along the ocean below the cliffs.

Imagine what it was like back in the day as the lighthouse keeper with his family living up here with his wife and children in all seasons.

The original lighthouse was built in 1861.  The iconic white and red lighthouse style is similar to what you would see at Peggy’s Cove.  The current lighthouse is the 3rd on this spot.

Nearby is a trailhead for Cape George Heritage Trail system.

 

Arisaig Collage

Arisaig

A trip to Arisaig is always a great day out. Now that summer is here the beach is inviting and safe for children. The lobster boats are all tied up as the season is over and wonderful to enjoy the peaceful views and the smell of salt-sea air and a fresh breeze.  The water was so calm this day that it was difficult to see the horizon with the sea and sky the same hue.

The Lobster Interpretive Centre / Tea Room is open with sandwiches, wraps, hot dogs and desserts. Great view of the harbour and learn lots of interesting facts about lobsters. There is an interesting short film to give more of the history and even tips on how to serve and eat a lobster.

Head over to the Lighthouse Café for an ice cream cone and watch the sea birds roosting on the rocks.

There will be lots of fun for all ages at the Arisaig Mid-Summer Festival July 16-19 with food, socials, dancing, kids games, live demonstrations, boat tours, music and more. (http://arisaigns.com/sum-r-fest/ )

There are so many things to see and do in the area. Enjoy the day. See my article in The Casket newspaper on the “Loop Drive Offers Delights from Arisaig to Barney’s River” for a full loop drive.

Arisaig is only 30 minutes from Antigonish via Hawthorne St / HWY 245 on the Northumberland coast.

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Peggy’s Cove

Peggy's Cove Lighthouse by Denise Davies

Peggy's Cove Lighthouse

Peggy’s Cove is a picturesque fishing village with a lighthouse that is one of the most photographed sites in Canada.

The village of Peggy’s Cove was originally settled in the 1700s as a fishing community.  Settlers also had cattle and did some farming in the small areas not covered with granite rocks.  The setting is beautiful but you can imagine the difficult life during the storms and winter.  This tiny community (2009 population: approx. 46) is a working fishing village and home of artists and artisans.

The weather is changeable – as anywhere in Nova Scotia.  Our visit was on a sunny spring day with a calm ocean.  However fog and storms are common and do be careful as you explore the granite rocks that you pay attention to the waves.   Bring layers and windbreakers.  During heavy seas and storms the waves crash up over the rocks.

The red and white lighthouse was built in 1915 and set out on a rocky point with views of St. Margaret’s Bay.  The entire area has large rounded granite slabs and it is fun to clamber over the rocks for spectacular ocean views and views of the village weather and safety permitting.

We enjoyed a delicious lunch at the Sou’Wester restaurant and gift shop which has a delicious selection of local seafood, salads, soups, burgers and local deserts such as Blueberry Grunt. The restaurant is open year round. The gift shop is a great place to browse for interesting art from local artists, photographs, clothing and gifts.

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The Visitor Information Center is open from May to October. Over 750,000 tourists visit Peggy’s Cove in a year – most during the tourist season.

A walk through the village is picturesque.  Homes of the fishermen, small arts and gift shops and the wharf are all set off by the ocean and the granite rocks of the area.   Be sure to see the 30M granite wall carving by William E. deGarthe depicting the fishermen and their families of Peggy’s Cove.  The deGarthe gallery is open during the May to October season.

Directions

The drive from the Halifax Armdale Rotary is 45 KM and passes lakes and coves along the way.  The road is winding and give yourself time to enjoy it.   You can return on a circle route passing the memorial for Swissair Flight 111 and then either continue on to Chester and Lunenberg or loop back to Halifax.

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