There is so much to enjoy and memories to make all over the island: hiking, winding roads with spectacular views, small villages, local artists and artisans, history, Celtic music, delicious lobster and seafood chowder, golf, kayaking, fishing, whale watching, beach combing, and heart-stopping beauty of nature.
This article by Denise Davies was published in Travel World International. Summer Issue 2016
And in a digital flip book edition on ISSUU Pages 18-23
Nova Scotia has wonderful Famers’ Markets. A great way to meet some of the locals, try fresh local produce, enjoy entertainment, shop for arts and crafts from local crafts people. Markets vary by area so check out the local bulletin board or shop to find out the dates and times. Or check the link below to “find a market”.
You can look for food, art, photography, crafts, jewelry, breads, cookies, muffins, fiddlers, dancers, local produce, jams, jellies, honey and sauces, beer, gin, vodka and wine, quilts, and more. Ask for recipes and tips if you find unfamiliar items.
Baddeck Village, on the shore of the Bras d’Or Lake in Cape Breton, is rich with land and sea activities for all ages.
Pick up a picnic lunch at the High Wheeler Café and stroll along the wharf and boardwalk. There’s a great selection of restaurants in Baddeck where you can enjoy a lobster dinner, local cuisine and be sure to sample the Scottish Oatcakes. Sip on a Big Spruce beer, a local craft beer produced in Nyanza just 12 km from Baddeck.
Shop for local arts and crafts in the boutiques and gift shops and visit artist studios Michael Keith a painter, Baddeck Yarns, and the Water’s Edge Gallery of Fine Arts and Crafts.
Explore the historic buildings including St. Mark’s Masonic Lodge, Telegraph House, St. Peter’s and St. John’s Anglican Church, Victoria County Court House and the many stately homes along the tree lined streets.
The Bras d’Or Lake is a large Inland sea connected to the North Atlantic by several natural channels and the St. Peters Lock Canal at the southern tip of the lake. It stretches 100 x 50Km in the centre of Cape Breton Island with a tidal mix of salt and fresh water. It is a boater’s paradise and a rich environment for wildlife and fishing. The Bras d’Or Lake is now designated as a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve which is an area in the world which is deemed to demonstrate a “balanced relationship between humans and the biosphere”. Visit the special exhibit at the Alexander Graham Bell Museum.
In 1885 Alexander and Mable Bell fell in love with Baddeck and made it their summer home. Alexander flew his Silver Dart airplane here above the frozen lake, the first flight in the British Empire. Explore his many scientific inventions at the Alexander Graham Bell Museum. “Discover” activities for children and “White glove tours” of the exhibits, kite flying and experiments are some of the hands on activities at the museum.
Enjoy a sail on the Amoeba schooner and look for bald headed eagles and their nests, view the Bell’s house Beinn Bhreagh, the Alexander Graham Bell Museum, the rolling hills and shoreline of the Bras d’Or Lake with its coves and islands and the Spectacle Island bird sanctuary, home of a large cormorant colony. (June 1 – Oct 15)
In the summer months head over on the ferry to Kidston Island and enjoy the beach, stroll around the island and visit the light house.
For the sports fishing enthusiast there are rainbow trout (steelhead), speckled trout, brown trout, smelt, gaspereaux, cod, flounder, mackerel, herring, lobster, and rock crab. Licenses and guides are available from the NS Department of Fisheries and Aquaculture.
Go hiking to Uisge Bàn Falls, 14.5 Km from Baddeck the trail follows cliff tops along the North River through hardwood forests to a lovely waterfall in a granite gorge.
North River Kayak tours are available for experienced and novice kayakers and have salt-water tours.
Or take in a round of golf at the 18 hole Bell Bay Golf Club with dramatic views. Enjoy lunch at Alexander’s Dining Room, open to all.
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Baddeck is 57 min (87.4 km) via Trans-Canada Hwy from the Canso Causeway.
This article originally appeared in The Casket, July 25, 2016
Nova Scotia’s Eastern Shore may seem a bit remote, but in reality, it’s just a couple of hours from Halifax, Antigonish or Cape Breton. And it’s worth the drive—the highway along the shore offers spectacular views as it meanders along past bays, coves, inlets, tidal marshes, pristine beaches and rugged coastline. Coastal islands dot the nearby waters, and all of it offers hikers, nature lovers, paddlers, history buffs and photographers much to enjoy.
Arriving in Guysborough, NS, a town that was settled in 1629, feels like stepping into the past; many of the lovely multi-coloured wooden houses date from the 1800s.
The town’s famed Rare Bird Pub and Eatery is in the bright pink building that itself dates from 1866, when it was a general store. Its recently-restored woodwork and original tin plate ceilings, in addition to the onsite brewery and deck overlooking the marina, make it a great spot to unwind.
Photos by Denise Davies
You’ll find the Skipping Stone Café and Store right above the marina, in the historic Jost Building on the Guysborough waterfront. The café sells freshly roasted organic, fair trade coffee from Full Steam Coffee Co. The café’s courtyard overlooks the harbour and you can rent sea kayaks, canoes and bicycles for exploring the land and the sea.
DesBarres Manor Inn is an elegant and comfortable Victorian inn built as a home in 1837 for Justice W.F. DesBarres. The outdoor gazebo deck has a spectacular view of the valley and is a popular wedding venue. Upstairs, the bedrooms are spacious, luxurious and welcoming. An antique writing desk in the master bedroom offers a view of the back lawn and the valley below (with the modern convenience of a Wi-Fi connection) is a writer’s delight.
Dinner at DesBarres is a memorable experience. For dinner we enjoyed a five-course meal which had a creative flair; each beautifully presented dish offers unique flavour combinations and local ingredients. My meal featured his light Poutine appetizer; Seared Scallops; Roasted Butternut Squash Soup with Truffles, Foie Gras and Walnuts; succulent Beef Tenderloin with Roasted Mushrooms; and was topped off with bite-sized Banana Bread Pudding with three kinds of homemade ice cream.
For a short hike, the grassy Shoreline Trail starts at the end of Guysborough’s Main Street and winds along Chedabucto Bay. Trail signs describe the history dating back to the 1600s when the area was buzzing with ship building and a large, vibrant port. For a longer hike, the Trans Canada Trail runs through Guysborough.
On the edge of town, the Osprey Shores Golf Resort offers brilliant greens and gorgeous water views. Comfortable accommodations, a swimming pool and a bonfire area make it an ideal family holiday setting.
Keep in mind that, because the Eastern Shore is off the beaten path, some of the back roads in this region are not in pristine condition; caution is recommended if you’re driving an RV. But that’s in keeping with the flavour of the region, anyway. It’s best enjoyed if you slow down and enjoy the scenery.
Click for Google Maps
Guysborough Nova Scotia Map directions
From Antigonish or Cape Breton, take exit 37 off Highway 104 at Monastery; travel south from Highway 4 onto Highway 16, through Boylston to Guysborough.
From Halifax, travel east and follow Marine Drive. Watch for signs indicating the status of the Country Harbour Ferry connecting Port Bickerton with Isaac’s Harbour North across Country Harbour. If it is open, take Highway 211 just past Sherbrooke; if it is not operating, continue on Highway 7, turn right at Melrose Country Harbour Road and again onto Guysborough Country Harbour Road at Cross Roads Country Harbour; follow the signs to Guysborough.
Map Guysborough with points of interest
Enjoy a scenic drive with ocean views, rolling hills, and stops at harbours a distillery and cheese maker. Our road trip today goes in a loop from Antigonish and along the Northumberland Shore.
Start out in Antigonish on Hawthorne Street, to Hwy 245 and at Malignant Cove turn left on Hwy 245 W along the Sunrise Trail. You are now traveling along the ruggedly beautiful Northumberland coast with vistas of the ocean and rural countryside.
Arisaig
At Arisaig turn right at the church down to the busy harbour. The tangy salty sea air and the sound of the gulls and waves surround you while you explore the wharf and views from the Lighthouse. You may see fishermen preparing to go out or on their return with lobsters in the May / June season.The beach at low tide is great for tide pooling and beach combing. Learn more about lobsters at The Lobster Interpretive Centre (July 1- Aug 31). The Dockside Tea Room has lunch pastries and chowder. In the summer season the Lighthouse Canteen will be open for ice cream and souvenirs.
Next stop is the Arisaig Provincial Park. Explore the green forest trails with the clean scents of pine and spruce. The interpretive centre describes the geology and history of the area and has a great view of Arisaig Harbour and the lighthouse. Take the stairs down to the beach and look for fossils dating back millions of years. At low tide you can walk along the beach to the harbour but be careful to check the tide times.
Drop in to Steinhart Distillery and learn how local ingredients such as maple and cranberry are used to make fine vodka. The Steinhart Gin in the blue designer bottle is also available with Haskap. Try this unique flavour. The Distillery is open Monday to Friday 10-6, Saturday and Sunday till noon – 6 till Thanksgiving (2016). The view from Steinharts is spectacular with the Arisaig Harbour and lighthouse. Check out also the chalets with their deck overlooking the coast.
The Red Roof Bed & Breakfast at McArras Brook is a great family place to visit or stay. This solar powered B&B welcomes visitors to drop in and meet the alpacas and donkeys, and to see the apple orchard and home garden. Josie Dessouroux cards, spins, knits and weaves with the Alpaca fleece and is happy to show you the process from the raw fibre to the finished items that she has for sale. The property has beautiful ocean views and a private beach with fossils.
Knoydart Farm is one of only 2 organic dairy farms in Nova Scotia. Family owned by Frazer Hunter, they produce organic Gloucester and Caerphilly cheeses in a variety of flavors including peppercorn, garlic, dill, cumin, chili, smoked, caraway and cranberry and Cheddar. Call ahead to visit 902-867-1305
During your road trip keep an eye out and stop at several Historical Kiosks found in Lismore, Merigomish and Barneys River Station. The plaques have interesting maps, tidbits on the area and historical photographs that will take you back to when these were thriving communities.
After Ponds, turn right to Big Island. The narrow 2KM causeway connects Big Island to the mainland. Walk across the sandy dunes to the long sandy and pebble beach – perfect for beach combing and paddling. Continuing on to the main island you pass through rolling green hills, with views across the inlet, wooded areas and even the occasional deer.
Back on Hwy 245 continue to Merigomish, a picturesque stop with the river, historical plaques and sign for Sunday tea on the old schoolhouse.
At Sutherlands River turn left on HWY 4 for a more scenic drive through rural country, or get on the HWY 104.
At Barneys River Station the one room school house was originally built in 1802. These one room schools were phased out in the 1970s. Read the Historical plaques to find out how Marshy Hope got its name and maps and business listings from the 1800s.
Merge on 104E after James River and take Exit 31 to return to Antigonish to finish the loop drive.
We often hear stories of out-migration from Nova Scotia. Here are stories of people who have chosen to come and live in Nova Scotia.
Learn the stories of John Graham-Pole, Kulbir Singh, Carol Rivoire, Joe Van Heerden and Thomas Steinhart who have “come by choice” to Nova Scotia.
All of these individuals are living in small communities in Nova Scotia. They see opportunities in our natural resources, the land,space, location and people. They have come by choice, and they bring new skills, talents, experiences and ideas and a fresh eye to what we have here. They often see potential in resources that we take for granted.
This was a fun article to write. Antigonish is my home town and I am a graduate of StFX University.
“Every September, the small town of Antigonish (population 5,195) doubles in size with the arrival of the students excited to start their new year at St. Francis Xavier University. Well known for its campus spirit, its strong international reputation, top ratings by students
in Maclean’s university rankings, and, of course, the X-ring, StFX easily attracts students and faculty from all over the world.”
This is one of a series of articles in Saltscapes Magazine on “Our University Towns” in the March/April 2016 issue.
Guest column, Emily Hiltz
Every time I journey through Victoria Park, I find myself thinking about how unbelievably fortunate the residents of Truro and Colchester County are to have such a beautiful park in their midst. While walking on the trails, I often expect to see Bambi emerge from the thicket or Snow White whistling through the trees. A walk in Victoria Park feels like you have been magically transported into another time and place.
Nestled in the Southeast corner of Truro, Victoria Park was established in 1887 when 25 acres of land were given to the town by local resident Susan Waddell Stevens for the creation of a public park. Today, the approximately 1,000 acres of land are considered one of Truro’s greatest treasures. Along with two rugged waterfalls, countless trails and well-known Jacob’s Ladder – the 175-step stairway – the park also includes an outdoor swimming pool, tennis courts, a little league ballfield, playground, bandshell and picnic area. The park’s enchanted interior includes unique geological formations in the gorge and river bed areas and soaring hard and softwood trees on the cliffs and forest area.
The park was named ‘Colchester’s Best Family Outing’ 2015 by the Truro and Colchester Chamber of Commerce.
Victoria Park is a unique gem, regardless of the season. In the summer, runners, hikers and families can be found enjoying a picnic in the park’s breathtaking scenery. In the winter, it’s a popular spot for cross-country skiing and snowshoeing.
The park’s trails range from lengthy routes for those interested in an afternoon trek to shorter walks for people who enjoy a short stroll. Signs are set up in different areas of the park to help visitors find their way, as well as highlight the lengths of the nearby trails and their terrain. Some trails, like the favored Wood Street Lookoff are picturesque and offer a rare view of the town and the Salmon River, while many other trails are perfect for birdwatchers and nature lovers alike.
A short walk into the park on the lower trail along Lepper Brook will take a visitor past the Holy Well Gazebo – a popular spot for wedding photos – Jacob’s ladder, and eventually the Joseph Howe Falls, which were named for Howe after he admired them on a visit in 1830. A couple sets of stairs takes the visitor to the Waddell Falls, which are named after the park’s original donor of land.
Cyclists are welcome in the park, but are urged to stay on hard-surface trails to prevent damage to environmentally sensitive areas of the park and yield to pedestrians.
If you’re going to be visiting the park, make sure to check out the Town of Truro website (www.truro.ca) for public activities or events coinciding with your visit. In the summer, there are often day camps for children in the park and swimming lessons at the pool. On occasion, there is also music and entertainment in the bandshell area. In the winter, there are sometimes guided walks through the park’s trails. In addition, cross-country skis, poles and snowshoes can be rented from the Truro Parks, Recreation and Culture offices.
If you will be passing through Truro in the near future, I strongly suggest placing Victoria Park as a priority on your must see list of places to visit.
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Article and photographs by Emily Hiltz a freelance journalist.
DEANS press release, Feb 23, 2016
Two videos featuring the Northumberland and Eastern Shores have recently been launched by the regional tourism association, Destination Eastern and Northumberland Shores (DEANS) with the goal to promote the beauty and character of the region to visitors. The Northumberland Shore clip features stunning beaches, cobalt blue waters and golden shores as well as a rich Scottish and industrial history along with lush meadows and scenic waterways, while the Eastern Shore video highlights breathtaking panoramic coastal shots, outdoor adventure, unique event and heritage experiences.
The smiling faces in the videos are actual residents of the two shores who are proud to be ambassadors for their communities and province and pleased to showcase diverse tourism experiences and amenities awaiting visitors. They each offer a warm invitation to uncover the unspoiled beauty of rural Nova Scotia and a chance to meet and connect with those who love life in this part of the world.
“Nova Scotia is known around the world for its beautiful world class icons but there is even more for visitors to uncover. Rural communities such as those along our two shores offer memorable authentic experiences that speak to our Nova Scotia way of life,” says Cindy MacKinnon, DEANS Managing Director. “In this region you will find unspoiled shorelines, warm waters and night skies that are filled with stars. We have a pristine beauty that others want to not only see, but experience. There are also many outdoor activities for those visitors who want soft adventure and to explore and truly understand life by the sea as well as the chance to savour the stories, music and cuisine that are part of our coastal communities and charming, historic towns. These two shores have a lot to offer-opportunities to experience the natural beauty of miles of coastline, rivers and lakes as well as stirring music and inspiring arts and culture. There are quality products and experiences being offered along both shores by tourism industry leaders and our communities that include outdoor exploration, amazing bounty harvested from both land and sea, opportunities to take a step back in time, uplifting fun filled festivals and delectable cuisine from innovative chefs as well as home spun cooking/baking in our restaurants and accommodations from recipes that have stood the test of time, from generation to generation.
Karen Wenaus, Chair of DEANS and Wes Surrett, Chair of the DEANS Marketing Committee, are also property managers of two destination accommodations on each of the shores, and both agree that many visitors to Nova Scotia appreciate the opportunity to get off the beaten path. They explain that the tourists they meet are eager to make new discoveries at their own pace and also want to meet locals who are so interesting, friendly, genuine and talented.
“There is something to be said for a change in pace, picturesque vistas, rugged shorelines and the serenity and tranquility of our shores,” says Wenaus. “It is easy for us to take sandy beaches and wide open spaces for granted but for many, it is chance to nourish the soul,” adds Surrett.
The videos were produced by Proptonics, a Nova Scotia video production company that is dedicated to servicing corporate, commercial and small businesses.
Colorful buildings are perched on the hillside above the picturesque harbour with the Bluenose II and other wooden ships from the 1800s. Lunenburg is one of Nova Scotia’s most photographed scenes. Your imagination takes you back to when this was a booming port with shipbuilding, fishing and trading.
Lunenburg is designated as a UNESCO World Heritage site, one of only two urban communities in North America. The multi coloured houses and businesses that line the streets are well-preserved examples of a prosperous and bustling 18th century coastal town.
Explore the town on foot on your own, by horse drawn carriage, or with a guided walking tour. Enjoy the view while you row a dory along the waterfront, or take a sail on the Bluenose II.
Click to view a short video:
Bluenose II
The original Bluenose was launched from Lunenburg as a Grand Banks fishing and racing schooner in 1921. The ship became a famous Nova Scotian icon and printed on the Canadian dime. The Bluenose II, replica now has its home port in Lunenburg and during the summer and fall has water tours and sails to different ports.
Fisheries Museum of Atlantic
The Fisheries Museum of the Atlantic has fascinating stories and artifacts. Short films set the scene and helpful guides had stories of days gone by. The museum is set on 3 floors and a great view of the harbour ships and activities. The displays and interactive dioramas make you appreciate the lives and work of fisherman. An excellent gift shop is on the main floor.
Top Mast Motel
There are many places to stay in the Old Town, but for my choice a perfect spot with a view of the Lunenburg town is the Top Mast Motel. The rooms are comfortable and the room patios overlook the waterfront and the Bluenose Golf Course next door. We enjoyed a lovely evening overlooking the harbour lights. The helpful manager provided a map and directions for things to do in the area and recommendations on places to eat.
Blue Rocks fishing shacks
Blue Rocks is a must visit – just a 20 minute drive to the east of Lunenburg. It has fascinating geology with folded sedimentary rocks with contrasting bands of blue, grey, brown, black and green are exposed along the tide line in fascinating shapes. A popular kayaking starting point, kayaks are available to rent at the General Store. The village has become a home to many artists.
Halifax – Lunenburg
Yarmouth – Lunenburg