Off the Beaten Track on the Eastern Shore
In October I was excited to go with a group of travel writers to visit the Eastern Shore of Nova Scotia.
SeaWind Landing Country Inn is certainly off the beaten track but well worth making this a destination. The Inn is located in Charlos Cove on the Eastern Shore with ocean views and fresh air off the Atlantic. I had a cozy gable room on 2nd floor with an ocean view – a great spot to catch the spectacular sunrise next morning. If you enjoy fine dining you are in for a gourmet experience. Local seafood and produce are the star attractions. The recipes are simply done to highlight the best flavor and presentation. The dining room view of the ocean and the warm colors and ambiance makes this a treat for the senses. My breakfast favorite is the blueberry French toast. There are several paths and trails leading down to the ocean and along the shore. Great for exploring. The lounge area in the main building is comfortable for a group mix and mingle area with piano and drinks or to browse through the books and enjoy a drink from the well stocked bar. There is also a small gift shop with local items. The innkeepers, Dave and Anne Marie de Jongh are hospitable and knowledgeable of the area with suggestions on what to see and do based on your time and interests.
Our group went out on the fishing boat, “Get Kraken”, with Captain Damian who expertly navigated us through the Sugar Islands, just off the coast – craggy rocky islands, wind swept trees, waves crashing over shoals and some sheltered sandy bays. We sighted some playful seals. The Berry Head Lighthouse and setting sun gave us some spectacular vistas while we enjoyed delicious snacks of Smoked Herring Fish Cakes and Digby Scallops prepared in the galley by Dave de Jongh, innkeeper of SeaWind Landing. A perfect way to enjoy in the tangy salt air along with a glass of wine.
For long sandy secluded beaches and interesting rock formations head to Tor Bay, a 15 minute drive from SeaWind Landing through Larry’s River. If you are craving solitude and peace this is a great spot to take in the sea air. Boardwalks, dunes, sea grasses and a variety of vegetation make for interesting nature exploration.
Jude Avery, a local historian gave us some insight to the history of the Acadian settlements along the Eastern Shore. His recent book “The Forgotten Acadiens … a story of discovery” describes how the Acadiens came to settle in the Larry’s River area and how they have survived over the centuries. The commemorative park “Parc de Nos Ancestres” in Larry’s River and Place Savalette National Historic Site, in Port Felix, commemorate this historic Acadien region. Parc de Nos Ancestres has an anchor shaped set of stones painted with the history of the Acadiens in this region.
A visit to Guysborough community feels like a step back into the past. The historical homes and churches show the prosperity of a past era when ship building and industry were an important part of this thriving town. Now you can learn about this at the town museum which is set in the Old Court House. The waterfront marina is usually busy in the summer but had suffered damage from the latest hurricane Dorian. We enjoyed a delicious lunch at “Days Gone By” with lobster rolls, fish cakes and tempting fresh bakery deserts.
There is lots to see and do on the Eastern Shore – nature, hiking, history and culture – and don’t forget the food and drink! On my next visit I would like to stay several days to be able to explore more of the area.
Note: Destination Eastern and Northumberland Shores (DEANS) organized and sponsored this FAM Tour. My lodging, activities, and food were compensated.
- SeaWind Landing Country Inn www.seawindlanding.ca
- Berry Head Lighthouse https://www.lighthousefriends.com/light.asp?ID=1665
- Tor Bay Acadien Society https://www.socacadien.org
- Tor Bay https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tor_Bay
- Guysborough Community https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Guysborough,_Nova_Scotia_(community)
- Guysborough Historical Association https://www.guysboroughhistoricalsociety.ca/