Tag Archives: Tor Bay

Eastern Shore Staycation

 NOTE – for accommodations and food it is best to check in advance about hours and opening.

Charlos Cove on the Eastern Shore of Nova Scotia is just 1 hr 40 minutes from Antigonish but it feels like a world away.  Its a great place for a few days of peaceful relaxing and short explorations.  Even the driving reminds me of my first trip there and “The Road Less Travelled”.  Definitely not a lot of traffic. 

Boylston Provincial Park

Enroute we stopped at Boylston Provincial Park, Day Use park has picnic tables and grassy area with lovely views of Chedabucto Bay.  Walk down to the left of the entrance gate along a shady boardwalk to take you to a foot bridge over to a small island.  A swimming, beach walking looking for pebbles and a shady island path are all great for the whole family.  The park is just a few KM before you reach Guysborough town.

  • View from Boylston Park
  • Footbridge to the island
  • Island hiking path

Guysborough Town

The ambiance of the town with its old homes and churches is from the late 1800s.  The Old Court House Museum is a good stop to learn about the history of the area and to get any info you need for your trip. Only the visitor info is available during COVID times. There is a self-guided walking tour of Guysborough. Download the map.  Stop for a meal at the Days Gone BY Bakery for a bowl of chowder, sandwiches and delicious baked goods.  Browse antiques and local art.  Head down to the marina and the Guysborough waterfront.

Charlos Cove

SeaWind Landing Country Inn is situated in Charlos Cove about 30 min from Guysborough town via Lundy.  The inn’s proprietors Dave and Anne Marie are hospitable and welcoming and knowledgeable of the area.  Our room was in the main part of the Inn, with a view of the Atlantic Ocean and the Sugar Islands just offshore.  The water was so calm there was little sounds of the waves.  Great place to watch the sunrise and sit out on our little patio or the chairs on the well-kept lawn.  Of course everything was spotless and all social distancing and masks in place.

  • Sunrise SeaWind Landing
  • Relax and unwind
  • SeaWind Landing
  • Sunset over Charlos Cove
  • You sometimes see seals, sea otters and blue herons on the rocks

The food is always memorable with breakfasts of eggs benedict, scrambled eggs with smoked salmon, and my favorite the blueberry stuffed French toast.  Of course with lots of hot coffee.  The evening meal favorites were mussels in Pernod sauce, lobster croquettes, halibut, scallops all in delicious recipes.  Best desert was the crème brule with Baileys Irish Crème.

We were lucky to get the special stay of 2 nights get the 3rd night free.  This gave lots of time for an enjoyable staycation and take small day trips in the area.

Larrys River

Charlos Cove is adjacent to Larrys River.  This is a hub of Acadian culture on the Eastern Shore.   I enjoyed reading “The Forgotten Acadians … a story of discovery” by Jude Avery while exploring the area.   In other years this area would be buzzing with activities for the Acadien Festival on August 15 but all was quiet this year.   No matter when you visit take time to stop at the Acadien Interpretive Site with paintings and interpretive signs illustrating the history of the area – Larry’s Rover Parc de nos Ancestres across from the St. Pierre church.  Also wander down to the footbridge crossing  Larry’s River for a view of the river.

  • Larry’s River Parc de nos Ancestres
  • Footbridge Larry’s River
  • Eglise St. Pierre, Larry’s River

Tor Bay Provincial Park

Boardwalks lead through various types of vegetation to several sweeping sandy beaches with rocky outcrops.  Picnic tables and interpretive panels give insight into the creation and history of the area. 

  • Tor Bay
  • Tor Bay
  • Tor Bay
  • Tor Bay
  • Tor Bay

Black Duck Cove

Just 30 min north of Charlos Cove, towards Canso is Black Duck Cove Provincial Park.  The Canteen at the Parking entrance has ice cream and meals with picnic tables and benches in the sun or shade.  It looked like the locals as well as visitors frequent the place as it is one of the few places available for food in the area.  A series of boardwalks and walking trails lead around the area.   The swimming beach has lovely soft sand and a protected beach.  Benches and picnic tables make it easy to stop and relax weather you are a swimmer or not.

  • Black Duck Cove map of
    walking trails
  • Boardwalk Black Duck Cove
  • Relaxing on a beach bench at the Swimming Beach

In October 2019 I was on a trip in Guysborough with travel writers sponsored by DEANS.  Darcy and Alex of thank HarbourTone Productions created this video which captured the spirit of our adventures.

https://www.facebook.com/DestinationEasternShore/videos/229771748184589/

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Off the Beaten Track on the Eastern Shore

Off the Beaten Track on the Eastern Shore

In October I was excited to go with a group of travel writers to visit the Eastern Shore of Nova Scotia.

SeaWind Landing Country Inn is certainly off the beaten track but well worth making this a destination.  The Inn is located in Charlos Cove on the Eastern Shore with ocean views and fresh air off the Atlantic. I had a cozy gable room on 2nd floor with an ocean view – a great spot to catch the spectacular sunrise next morning.  If you enjoy fine dining you are in for a gourmet experience.  Local seafood and produce are the star attractions.   The recipes are simply done to highlight the best flavor and presentation.  The dining room view of the ocean and the warm colors and ambiance makes this a treat for the senses. My breakfast favorite is the blueberry French toast.  There are several paths and trails leading down to the ocean and along the shore. Great for exploring.  The lounge area in the main building is comfortable for a group mix and mingle area with piano and drinks or to browse through the books and enjoy a drink from the well stocked bar.   There is also a small gift shop with local items.  The innkeepers, Dave and Anne Marie de Jongh are hospitable and knowledgeable of the area with suggestions on what to see and do based on your time and interests.

Our group went out on the fishing boat, “Get Kraken”, with Captain Damian  who expertly navigated us through the Sugar Islands, just off the coast – craggy rocky islands, wind swept trees, waves crashing over shoals and some sheltered sandy bays.  We sighted some playful seals.   The Berry Head Lighthouse and setting sun gave us some spectacular vistas while we enjoyed delicious snacks of Smoked Herring Fish Cakes and Digby Scallops prepared in the galley by Dave de Jongh, innkeeper of SeaWind Landing. A perfect way to enjoy in the tangy salt air along with a glass of wine.

For long sandy secluded beaches and interesting rock formations head to Tor Bay, a 15 minute drive from SeaWind Landing through Larry’s River.   If you are craving solitude and peace this is a great spot to take in the sea air.  Boardwalks, dunes, sea grasses and a variety of vegetation make for interesting nature exploration.

Jude Avery, a local historian gave us some insight to the history of the Acadian settlements along the Eastern Shore.  His recent book “The Forgotten Acadiens … a story of discovery” describes how the Acadiens came to settle in the Larry’s River area and how they have survived over the centuries.  The commemorative park “Parc de Nos Ancestres” in Larry’s River and Place Savalette National Historic Site, in Port Felix, commemorate this historic Acadien region.  Parc de Nos Ancestres has an anchor shaped set of stones painted with the history of the Acadiens in this region.

A visit to Guysborough community feels like a step back into the past.  The historical homes and churches show the prosperity of a past era when ship building and industry were an important part of this thriving town.   Now you can learn about this at the town museum which is set in the Old Court House.  The waterfront marina is usually busy in the summer but had suffered damage from the latest hurricane Dorian.  We enjoyed a delicious lunch at “Days Gone By” with lobster rolls, fish cakes and tempting fresh bakery deserts.

There is lots to see and do on the Eastern Shore – nature, hiking, history and culture – and don’t forget the food and drink!  On my next visit I would like to stay several days to be able to explore more of the area. 

Note: Destination Eastern and Northumberland Shores (DEANS) organized and sponsored this FAM Tour.  My lodging, activities, and food were compensated.

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