Category Archives: Places

Cliff coastline at Glace Bay outlook from CB Miners Museum

Glace Bay: A Trip Down Memory Lane

 

I was born in Glace Bay and lived there for my first year. My memories include many years of visiting at my grandmother’s house with lots of music, playing in the big kitchen, great food, picking cranberries and blueberries on the hill behind the house. Saturday afternoons as I got older often my brother and I would walk down Main Street to “the show” at The Savoy. In those days westerns and cartoons would be my favorites. I saw my first grown up movie there at the age of 6 – Carmen Jones with Harry Belefonte.

Of course I heard the stories about the Savoy which was built in the 1920s by my grandfather John Connor. In the early days there were vaudeville shows, the stage was big enough for a boxing match AND the audience, how the long draping curtains on all the walls were sewn by my grandmother, my aunt Annie playing for “the flicks” the talkies and entertainers like the child Sammy Davis Jr. coming to Glace Bay.

It is wonderful to see The Savoy Theatre now. The interior is still in its original Victorian style. Changes to the exterior and renovations to the structure with a new entrance have expanded the lobby space and added an attractive entry. The Savoy is now managed by The Savoy Theatre Society. On my visit a few weeks ago, children were rehearsing for The Little Mermaid. Live shows and plays are regular events that draw people from all over.  The theatre interior looks much as it did when I was a child in the 40s and 50s with its wonderful architecture and feeling of stepping back into a more elegant time.

One thing that has remained the same is the feel of the wind coming up from the harbour to Senator’s Corner.

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Looking at my photos of Glace Bay now, I marvel at the blue sky. This was a coal mine and industrial area of Cape Breton until the 60s. The Sydney coal fields go out miles under the ocean. As you look on the map or drive along the coast the names conjure up the miners in the various collieries: Donkin, Dominion, Caledonia, Reserve Mines, Port Morien, Lingan, New Waterford, Sydney Mines and more. The Colliery Route and the Marconi Trail runs from Glace Bay to Louisbourg and includes the remnants of North America’s first coal mine, circa 1720 (Port Morien).

The Cape Breton Miners Museum in Glace Bay is situated on Quarry Point with a view out into the Atlantic and along the coastline. When looking at the view we can picture the miners working in the coal seams that went for miles out under the ocean – such brave hard working men.   The museum has also built a re-creation of the miners’ homes and the company store. You can find company houses in all the mining towns. My paternal grandfather was a miner and lived in a company house in New Waterford.

According to interpretive signs at the museum “During the 18th century, coal was mined from exposed seams along cliffs from Port Morien to Lingan. The cargo was then transported by boat. The main use for this coal was to fuel the building and operation of Louisbourg, a French fortress established in 1713. During that time the Atlantic Ocean was a bustling highway filled with fishing vessels. As you travel around Cape Breton it is interesting to see how the communities were linked together through coal and fishing.

Unfortunately the museum was not open on my last visit – all the more reason to go back again and continue to explore Cape Breton and its rich history.  I want to go down into the mine at the Miners Museum and visit the Marconi Museum, the Glace Bay Town Hall Museum and of course take in a live show at The Savoy.

This article originally appeared as “Glace Bay: A Trip Down Memory Lane” in the Cape Breton Star, Oct. 30, 2014. Pages 4, 8.

 More Information

Port of Sydney - Big Fiddle, Flavor on the Water

Sydney Cape Breton

Sydney: Then and Now.

Article in The Cape Breton Star. By Denise Davies. Oct 2014

Living in Sydney in the 50s and 60s the steel plant was right in view of our front yard. We could see the billowing clouds of yellow smoke, hear the sound of the shunting coal cars and of course the “yellow snow” and coal dust on everything. At night we could see the clouds lit up and hear the dumpling slag.

The steel plant and the tar ponds are no more — replaced by the Open Hearth Park which hosted an audience of 15,000 for a recent outdoor Aerosmith concert. The park is an amazing open area with winding trails, a wonderful playground including musical instruments as well as play activities, a variety of sports fields and just minutes from downtown Sydney. No one ever thought that the steel plant and tar ponds would be gone. In fact I remember great fighting to keep the mines and the steel plant. It’s amazing to see green areas and recreation in place of industry, with clear skies and places to play and enjoy for all ages.

Audrey Chiasson 1957-2014Then and now photo – 1957 – 2014

Read the full article in the Cape Breton Star http://thechronicleherald.ca/community/cape-breton/1240503-sydney-then-and-now

 Things to do

  • Big Fiddle.  Cruise ships tie up here. Gift shops. Interesting museum on 2nd floor with culture and heritage of Cape Breton.  Flavor on the Water Restaurant.  BIg Fiddle Market,
  • Open Hearth Park.  Amazing restoration of the Steel Plant and Tar Ponds to a recreation area with playgrounds, playing fields, walking trails and greenery.  Open Hearth Park
  • Flavor Restaurants.  Eat out at one or all of the Flavor Restaurants.  Flavor on the Water is on the 2nd floor of the Big Fiddle. Enjoy the versatile Florence Sampson at the piano on Friday nights.  CB Flavor Restaurants,
  • Wentworth Park.  Great place for a walk or run.  Photo from 1928
  • Membertou Heritage Park. Convention Centre, entertainment, restaurant, hotel, shopping, museum.  Membertou
  • Trip Adviser – Things to Do in Sydney
  • Old Sydney Society – museums, lectures and cultural events. Old Sydney
  • Things to do – Port of Sydney

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Side Trips

 Heart of Steel – Video

Fortress of Louisbourg

7 Fun Things to do in Louisbourg

 

 

There is so much to see and enjoy in Louisbourg plan on staying for 2-3 days if possible. Some of these suggestions are seasonal. Please check the website links for details of hours and specifics.

  1. Fortress of Louisbourg

Of course the Fortress of Louisbourg is the main attraction in Louisbourg. Give yourself at least 4-5 hours. There is so much to explore in the various houses and buildings. Talk to the people in their period costumes. You will hear stories and recounting of events and how people lived in 1744. Take one of their mini tours – check on the website or at the desk for what is available on the day you are there. The rebuilt fortress covers a large area so wear good walking shoes and bring your water bottle. Each season of the year has different types of activities. The “shoulder season” in the fall is a great time to visit with fewer crowds and more chance to ask questions. Parks Canada Website – National Historic Site Fortress of Louisbourg http://www.pc.gc.ca/eng/lhn-nhs/ns/louisbourg/visit.aspx

  1. Hike the Lighthouse Trail

The Louisbourg Lighthouse is the first lighthouse in Canada and the 2nd in all of North America. The trail is in various lengths and winds along the coast with terrific views of cliffs, cormorants, waves and a variety of vegetation and geology. The path is well maintained and just a few ups and downs. There are several hiking trails around Louisbourg https://www.facebook.com/pages/Louisbourg-Lighthouse-Coastal-Trail/573458949340263

  1. Eat Lobster

The Lobster Kettle restaurant in down town Louisbourg serves a whole lobster in a cute presentation. The lobster is delicious and a lovely setting on the deck overlooking the harbour. There is also inside seating if the weather is not great and other choices on the menu. http://www.lobsterkettle.com/

  1. Railroad Museum

The Sydney & Louisburg Railway Museum is on your right just as you are driving into town. Learn more about the relationship of the railway and marine trade and transport in 1895 hauling coal. Train buffs will love this and it brings the era to life through models, photos and artifacts. http://www.novascotiarailwayheritage.com/louisbourg.htm

  1. Louisbourg Playhouse

This performing arts center offers a variety of entertainers, musicians, plays. Check for programme details http://louisbourgplayhouse.ca/

  1. Beach trip

This beach is worth the 25 minute drive from Louisbourg along the Marconi Trail. I was really taken with the beach at Main A Dieu – a network of boardwalks through the seagrass and then a beautiful wide and long sandy beach. http://www.whatsgoinon.ca/cape-breton-beach-bum-adventures-main-a-dieu-beach/#.VCHXaRbP_sk

  1. Historical Dinner – The Beggar’s Banquet

Dine in 18th Century Style with delicious selection of lobster, crab, fish or chicken. This is an experience – not just a dinner. Dining room of Point of View Suites http://www.louisbourgpointofview.com/dining/

More Photos

 

Where to Stay

  • Point of View Suites. Beautiful location right on the coast with a view from the Fortress and across the bay to the Louisbourg Lighthouse. Spacious suites most furnished with a kitchen which makes it easy to stay a while and enjoy the area. http://www.louisbourgpointofview.com/
  • Cranberry Cove Inn. Easy to spot this place with its beautiful cranberry color and heritage house look. http://www.cranberrycoveinn.com
  • RV Park & Campground. On the main street of Louisbourg close to the boardwalk.  http://louisbourg.com/motorhomepark/
  • More Louisbourg accommodations on Trip Advisor http://www.tripadvisor.ca/Tourism-g499217-Louisbourg_Cape_Breton_Island_Nova_Scotia-Vacations.html

More Information (Links)

 

 

 

Enjoy an Acadian Lunch in Pomquet

 

 

Pockets of Acadian life are found throughout Nova Scotia. Pomquet is a small village just 20 min from Antigonish and just off the Trans Canada. It has a strong community spirit and beautiful setting.

You can enjoy an authentic Acadian Lunch at Chez DesLauriers in Pomquet village during the summer months. Every week has a different menu which you can find posted on their website. http://www.pomquet.net/en/chezdeslauriers.html

The setting is spectacular with Chez DesLauriers, a white heritage home on Monk’s Head having a view over St. George’s Bay and Pomquet Beach with a view to Cape Breton. Old photographs and antique home items provide the décor in the tea room. There is lively atmosphere from visitors and locals enjoying the food and company.   We enjoyed a great lunch of Fricot or Pate’ – both traditional Acadian dishes that I remember from my childhood.

Next door the Interpretive Centre describes the history, geology and formation of the area and the people who have lived here and their way of life.   In the area behind the house the Pomquet Acadian Walking Trails are well marked and take you across the grassy cliffs with views of the ocean, wending through the forest, or down along the beach.

In August there are two special Lobster Roll dinners to look forward to.

Talking about the Weather

 

 

 

It’s no wonder that the weather is a topic of conversation in Nova Scotia. In the past 3 weeks since the beginning of January 2014 we have seen province wide swings in the weather.

It started out with a blizzard – a total white out. This was followed by freezing rain and extreme ice conditions where roads and driveways were like a skating rink. Low temperatures continued for several days.

Historical chart of January 2014 at the Halifax Stanfield International Airport courtesy of the Government of Canada

Then came the January thaw where we were back to spring jackets, the ground cleared, green grass and tips of bulbs coming up. It felt like spring – but don’t be fooled! Steady rain for 2 days melted most of the snow and ice. The rivers and streams had an ice breakup and swollen rivers and flooded fields and basements in low lying areas.

Last night, as predicted from the balmy day overnight we got 15 CM of snow – light powdery snow with huge flakes. Early morning everything has a fluffy blanket of snow and little wind so the branches of all the trees are outlined with snow.

Who knows what else the winter will bring but it is sure to be interesting. As I am publishing this there is a promised Nor’easter on the way to Nova Scotia with blizzard conditions. Will leave that for another day.

To check the weather

Articles – January Weather in NS

Mist Rising on an Autumn Morning

This autumn morning in Antigonish was a perfect mix of crisp fall day, a light wind and changing temperatures that brought mist rolling into the valley and rising and falling on the wind currents.  The green fields, reds and golds of the trees peeked out or were hidden by the autumn mists.

Enjoy the video

A Nova Scotia Lobster Feast

 

My daughter visited us in Nova Scotia recently from Vancouver and top of her wish list was to have a lobster.  It isn’t the lobster season in our area and although we could have a lobster dinner in a restaurant, or buy a lobster from a big chain grocery store that wasn’t the experience I wanted for her.  I grew up eating lobsters fresh from the pound and boiled on the beach – or a feed of lobster on the back yard picnic table. No fancy dinner just butter for dipping and lots of newspaper and dripping juicy lobster.

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On a tip from my sister we found a great place that gave the real experience.  Ryer Lobsters is just 2 KM past Peggy’s Cove when you are heading from the Halifax side, in the village of Indian Harbour.  It would be easy to miss it but watch on the water side.  On first site it just looks like a big shed.  However this is a lobster pound with the fresh seawater flowing through a huge tank of live lobsters.  We ordered our lobsters, weighed them out and Ryan popped them into the cauldron of boiling water.  While we waited our 20 minutes we enjoyed delicious oysters on the half shell with tabasco and fresh lemon.

What a feast!  Around the back there are picnic tables with a fantastic view of the harbour.  The lobsters came fully cracked and easy to open but still all in a piece.  Lobster bibs, picking tools and an incredible sweet taste of fresh lobster.  This was the real thing!  Just as good as at home in the backyard or on the beach.   Unfortunately no license so if you want a beer you can take them home with you or to your picnic spot.

Ryer Lobsters is open year round.  So if you are craving a lobster feast on your Nova Scotia travels head there for the real thing.

Antigonish Beaches along Saint George’s Bay

Antigonish is blessed with a variety of beaches within a half hour drive all along the St George’s Bay coastline.  This posting is about the beaches along Highway 337 going north along the coast from Antigonish.  I enjoy hunting for colorful stones and shells, breathing the fresh sea air and beach walks.

The Sunrise Trail

Traveling from the East end of Antigonish you have the beaches and coves along the Sunrise Trail (HWY 337) – Mahoneys Beach, Jimtown, Cribbons, Crystal Cliffs, Balantyne’s Cove and Cape George.   Each of these has its own charm and atmosphere.  As the name “Sunrise Trail” suggests, these beaches are facing to the East and a good place to see the sunrise.    Head out of town on Hwy 337 past the Museum and railway tracks and up past the hospital.

The first beach you come to is Mahoney’s Beach. it’s great for a long walk along the ocean or lagoon side.  I saw 6 blue herons here the other day standing in the still water of the lagoon at sunset.   You will often see paddlers and Kayaks exploring the area – the outlet from Antigonish Harbour is here.  This is a pebble beach with some sand on the lagoon side.   It’s a great place for a beach campfire.

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Jim Town Beach is a stretch of sandy beach with Ogden Pond on the inland side.  At low tide you can walk towards Mahoneys Beach.   Watch for the currents at this beach as the fresh water runs out into the ocean at this point.  This is a good beach for watching sea birds, beach combing and beautiful views of the hills and homes surrounding this tiny beach.  Stop and see the tiny white country church along the access road.

Cribbons Point comes next with a boat marina.

NOTE – BOYD’s is closed   This is not a beach but I am including it because during the summer season you will find Boyd’s Seafood Galley with a delicious selection of fish and chips, lobster, calamari, shrimp, scallops and burgers for the non-seafood eater.  Fresh salads and ice cream top off their menu.  The restaurant is perched above the harbour with a good view of the fishing boats and pleasure crafts.  Eat in the gazebo, patio area, inside or take-out and explore the wharf area.  This is only 20 minutes from Antigonish so head here for a great seafood dinner any night of the week.

Ballantyne’s Cove is a working fishing wharf.  The Tuna Interpretive Center is worth exploring and if you are a big game fisherman you would be interested in the tuna charters that head out on angling expeditions.  Just behind the Tuna Center take the path to the beach.

As you travel a bit further up the coast explore the Cape George Lighthouse and trails.  This is the Northern tip of the St. George’s Bay.  No beach here but gorgeous views of the entire Bay and over to Cape Breton Island.  At this point you can retrace your drive to Antigonish or continue on to Arisaig and come back by the land route returning onto Hawthorne Street in Antigonish.

Future posts will explore the beaches on the Northumberland shore towards Arisaig, and another along  Hwy 104 heading towards Cape Breton

Map

Antigonish to Cape George

Be Prepared

Take water, sunscreen, a jacket, hat, snacks, beach shoes.  There is little or no shade on these beaches so take what you need to be comfortable.

For More Information

Winter Wonderland in Nova Scotia

 

Winter is almost over but I wanted to share some wonderful winter days that we had.  Although we usually have windy days, on a few days the snow just fell down gently in large flakes and coated everything in several fluffy centimeters of snow.  A lovely sight.

On another morning a low temperature and high humidity gave us a “Hoar Frost” that coated every leaf, twig and branch in a coating of ice making everything look like a glass fairyland.

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Art Out and About Antigonish

 

 

Antigonish has long been a centre for the arts and artists.  In the past year there have been a lot of new additions to art exhibit spaces and the arts are flourishing.   There are many wonderful galleries and exhibits to explore and enjoy as you stroll along Main Street and then take a drive for more.  See how many you can visit and be sure and add your comments and suggest any others that you find.

Main Street Mural Andrew Murray

Main Street Mural Andrew Murray

Starting from the Post Office end of town and heading East on the right side of the street:

  • ASAP, 319 Main St. (next to the Post Office)  www.asapartcentre.com All of Us Society for Art Presentation, is a newly formed artist-run centre founded by local artists and art supporters.
  • People’s Place Library, 283 Main Street www.parl.ns.ca/peoplesplace/guide Browse the community art in the Bistro area changing monthly.  Permanent exhibits commissioned from local artists are found throughout the building.   July displays the GoArts juried works from 25 artists in a variety of medium.  Free WiFi, friendly staff, great collection of books and bulletin board with local happenings.   Bring in your coffee or lunch to enjoy in the Bistro while you meet or play board games.
  • Bergengren Credit Union, 257 Main St. www.docstoc.com/docs/72284899/THE-GIFT –   Frieze by Fenn Martin “The Gift”- celebrating the journey of the Bergengren through 75 years.
  • McLeod Gallery, 219 Main Street, Kirk Place. www.antigonishphotographersexhibit.com Antigonish Photographers Exhibit.  July and August.  “Scottish Ayres”.  Photography exhibit by APx.
  • Prissy Pig Café and Deli, 20 St. Andrew’s Street (corner of Main St) www.facebook.com/prissypigcafedeli – – Peter Jowett photography exhibit July and August.  Have lunch or a brunch from this great local food restaurant.

Starting from the Post Office end of town and heading East on the left side of the street:

  • The Tall and Small Café, 342 Main St.  The café expanded recently and now has ample seating room and a delicious vegetarian menu.  Changing exhibits of art and photography are displayed along the walls in both rooms.  July Exhibit – Ruth Young.
  • The Made in Nova Scotia Store – 324 Main Street  www.themadeinnovacotiastore.com A treasure trove of hand-made crafts from Nova Scotia.
  • Aphrodite Art and Fashion, 292 Main Streetwww.aphroditeartandfashion.com Enjoy whimsical and elegant selection of art from Atlantic artists in a relaxed and enjoyable atmosphere.  Including works from Wayne Boucher, Ann Manuel and many others.
  • Andrew Murraywww.antigonishculturealive.ca/aca-outstanding-artist-of-the-year-2011 See Andrew’s murals on several of the buildings along Main Street and his interior design of Cameron’s Jewelry.
  • Down to Earth Art Gallery and Fine Framing, 240 Main Street.    www.downtoearth.ca Featuring works by J. Franklin Wright, Alan Syliboy and others.
  • Lyghtesome Gallery, 166 Main Street. www.lyghtesome.ns.ca This gallery has been a mainstay of culture in Antigonish since 1975 and exhibits works from Linda Johns, Anna Syperek, Julia Redgrave and many others. A fine selection of original paintings, sculpture, prints, cards and works of art. The Summer Showcase of Gallery Artists July 6 — Aug 31 – “A Slice of Nova Scotia at its Visual Best”.  New and recent works by gallery artists. Special Feature: “Unheard Music”, Linda Johns’ newest ltd. ed. book

Slideshow of a few of the locations:

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Off Main and out of town:

  • St FX Art Gallery – Bottom floor, Bloomfield Center, St. Francis Xavier University.  The summer exhibit is from the permanent collection.
  • Old Barn Gallery.  Melanson Road, Pomquet (30 minutes east of Antigonish off Highway 104). www.facebook.com/OldBarnGalleryDecor Beautiful display of arts and antiques set in an old barn and surrounded by gorgeous flower gardens.
  • C.A.  MacLean A Matter of Tastes.  3931 Highway 7 (10 minutes from Antigonish) www.amatteroftastes.ca Featuring works by Vicki (V.L.) MacLean

Upcoming Art Events 2012

  • Gathering of the Arts.  GoArts 2012. July 9 – 30. www.antigonishculturealive.ca Peoples’ Place Library.  Exhibition of juried art work from 25 local artists from Antigonish Culture Alive. Opening reception July 9.
  • Art Ceilidh Studio Tour.  July 13 – 14.  www.facebook.com/events/241118522665990 Part of the Highland Games week celebrations.  Tours of artist galleries and studios in and around Antigonish.  Start your tour at Lyghtesome Gallery for maps and directions.
  • Antigonight: Art After Dark. September 21-22.  http://antigonightfest.tumblr.comNighttime participatory festival for all the arts, celebrating the rich arts community of northeastern Nova Scotia.
  • Antigonish International Film Festival.  October 19-20. www.antigonishfilmfest.org Over 40 documentary films.  Peoples’ Place and Empire Capitol Theatre.   Community Dinner and arts at the Prissy Pig Oct 20.

July in Antigonish an Arts Celebration. The Casket, June 26, 2012 by Richard MacKenzie

Directions

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Denise Davies is a travel writer, photographer, filmmaker and entrepreneur.  This article appeared in the Highland Heart, June 29.  www.highlandheart.ca