Enjoy an Acadian Lunch in Pomquet

 

 

Pockets of Acadian life are found throughout Nova Scotia. Pomquet is a small village just 20 min from Antigonish and just off the Trans Canada. It has a strong community spirit and beautiful setting.

You can enjoy an authentic Acadian Lunch at Chez DesLauriers in Pomquet village during the summer months. Every week has a different menu which you can find posted on their website. http://www.pomquet.net/en/chezdeslauriers.html

The setting is spectacular with Chez DesLauriers, a white heritage home on Monk’s Head having a view over St. George’s Bay and Pomquet Beach with a view to Cape Breton. Old photographs and antique home items provide the décor in the tea room. There is lively atmosphere from visitors and locals enjoying the food and company.   We enjoyed a great lunch of Fricot or Pate’ – both traditional Acadian dishes that I remember from my childhood.

Next door the Interpretive Centre describes the history, geology and formation of the area and the people who have lived here and their way of life.   In the area behind the house the Pomquet Acadian Walking Trails are well marked and take you across the grassy cliffs with views of the ocean, wending through the forest, or down along the beach.

In August there are two special Lobster Roll dinners to look forward to.

Talking about the Weather

 

 

 

It’s no wonder that the weather is a topic of conversation in Nova Scotia. In the past 3 weeks since the beginning of January 2014 we have seen province wide swings in the weather.

It started out with a blizzard – a total white out. This was followed by freezing rain and extreme ice conditions where roads and driveways were like a skating rink. Low temperatures continued for several days.

Historical chart of January 2014 at the Halifax Stanfield International Airport courtesy of the Government of Canada

Then came the January thaw where we were back to spring jackets, the ground cleared, green grass and tips of bulbs coming up. It felt like spring – but don’t be fooled! Steady rain for 2 days melted most of the snow and ice. The rivers and streams had an ice breakup and swollen rivers and flooded fields and basements in low lying areas.

Last night, as predicted from the balmy day overnight we got 15 CM of snow – light powdery snow with huge flakes. Early morning everything has a fluffy blanket of snow and little wind so the branches of all the trees are outlined with snow.

Who knows what else the winter will bring but it is sure to be interesting. As I am publishing this there is a promised Nor’easter on the way to Nova Scotia with blizzard conditions. Will leave that for another day.

To check the weather

Articles – January Weather in NS

Mist Rising on an Autumn Morning

This autumn morning in Antigonish was a perfect mix of crisp fall day, a light wind and changing temperatures that brought mist rolling into the valley and rising and falling on the wind currents.  The green fields, reds and golds of the trees peeked out or were hidden by the autumn mists.

Enjoy the video

A Nova Scotia Lobster Feast

 

My daughter visited us in Nova Scotia recently from Vancouver and top of her wish list was to have a lobster.  It isn’t the lobster season in our area and although we could have a lobster dinner in a restaurant, or buy a lobster from a big chain grocery store that wasn’t the experience I wanted for her.  I grew up eating lobsters fresh from the pound and boiled on the beach – or a feed of lobster on the back yard picnic table. No fancy dinner just butter for dipping and lots of newspaper and dripping juicy lobster.

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On a tip from my sister we found a great place that gave the real experience.  Ryer Lobsters is just 2 KM past Peggy’s Cove when you are heading from the Halifax side, in the village of Indian Harbour.  It would be easy to miss it but watch on the water side.  On first site it just looks like a big shed.  However this is a lobster pound with the fresh seawater flowing through a huge tank of live lobsters.  We ordered our lobsters, weighed them out and Ryan popped them into the cauldron of boiling water.  While we waited our 20 minutes we enjoyed delicious oysters on the half shell with tabasco and fresh lemon.

What a feast!  Around the back there are picnic tables with a fantastic view of the harbour.  The lobsters came fully cracked and easy to open but still all in a piece.  Lobster bibs, picking tools and an incredible sweet taste of fresh lobster.  This was the real thing!  Just as good as at home in the backyard or on the beach.   Unfortunately no license so if you want a beer you can take them home with you or to your picnic spot.

Ryer Lobsters is open year round.  So if you are craving a lobster feast on your Nova Scotia travels head there for the real thing.

Antigonish Beaches along Saint George’s Bay

Antigonish is blessed with a variety of beaches within a half hour drive all along the St George’s Bay coastline.  This posting is about the beaches along Highway 337 going north along the coast from Antigonish.  I enjoy hunting for colorful stones and shells, breathing the fresh sea air and beach walks.

The Sunrise Trail

Traveling from the East end of Antigonish you have the beaches and coves along the Sunrise Trail (HWY 337) – Mahoneys Beach, Jimtown, Cribbons, Crystal Cliffs, Balantyne’s Cove and Cape George.   Each of these has its own charm and atmosphere.  As the name “Sunrise Trail” suggests, these beaches are facing to the East and a good place to see the sunrise.    Head out of town on Hwy 337 past the Museum and railway tracks and up past the hospital.

The first beach you come to is Mahoney’s Beach. it’s great for a long walk along the ocean or lagoon side.  I saw 6 blue herons here the other day standing in the still water of the lagoon at sunset.   You will often see paddlers and Kayaks exploring the area – the outlet from Antigonish Harbour is here.  This is a pebble beach with some sand on the lagoon side.   It’s a great place for a beach campfire.

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Jim Town Beach is a stretch of sandy beach with Ogden Pond on the inland side.  At low tide you can walk towards Mahoneys Beach.   Watch for the currents at this beach as the fresh water runs out into the ocean at this point.  This is a good beach for watching sea birds, beach combing and beautiful views of the hills and homes surrounding this tiny beach.  Stop and see the tiny white country church along the access road.

Cribbons Point comes next with a boat marina.

NOTE – BOYD’s is closed   This is not a beach but I am including it because during the summer season you will find Boyd’s Seafood Galley with a delicious selection of fish and chips, lobster, calamari, shrimp, scallops and burgers for the non-seafood eater.  Fresh salads and ice cream top off their menu.  The restaurant is perched above the harbour with a good view of the fishing boats and pleasure crafts.  Eat in the gazebo, patio area, inside or take-out and explore the wharf area.  This is only 20 minutes from Antigonish so head here for a great seafood dinner any night of the week.

Ballantyne’s Cove is a working fishing wharf.  The Tuna Interpretive Center is worth exploring and if you are a big game fisherman you would be interested in the tuna charters that head out on angling expeditions.  Just behind the Tuna Center take the path to the beach.

As you travel a bit further up the coast explore the Cape George Lighthouse and trails.  This is the Northern tip of the St. George’s Bay.  No beach here but gorgeous views of the entire Bay and over to Cape Breton Island.  At this point you can retrace your drive to Antigonish or continue on to Arisaig and come back by the land route returning onto Hawthorne Street in Antigonish.

Future posts will explore the beaches on the Northumberland shore towards Arisaig, and another along  Hwy 104 heading towards Cape Breton

Map

Antigonish to Cape George

Be Prepared

Take water, sunscreen, a jacket, hat, snacks, beach shoes.  There is little or no shade on these beaches so take what you need to be comfortable.

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Winter Wonderland in Nova Scotia

 

Winter is almost over but I wanted to share some wonderful winter days that we had.  Although we usually have windy days, on a few days the snow just fell down gently in large flakes and coated everything in several fluffy centimeters of snow.  A lovely sight.

On another morning a low temperature and high humidity gave us a “Hoar Frost” that coated every leaf, twig and branch in a coating of ice making everything look like a glass fairyland.

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Art Out and About Antigonish

 

 

Antigonish has long been a centre for the arts and artists.  In the past year there have been a lot of new additions to art exhibit spaces and the arts are flourishing.   There are many wonderful galleries and exhibits to explore and enjoy as you stroll along Main Street and then take a drive for more.  See how many you can visit and be sure and add your comments and suggest any others that you find.

Main Street Mural Andrew Murray

Main Street Mural Andrew Murray

Starting from the Post Office end of town and heading East on the right side of the street:

  • ASAP, 319 Main St. (next to the Post Office)  www.asapartcentre.com All of Us Society for Art Presentation, is a newly formed artist-run centre founded by local artists and art supporters.
  • People’s Place Library, 283 Main Street www.parl.ns.ca/peoplesplace/guide Browse the community art in the Bistro area changing monthly.  Permanent exhibits commissioned from local artists are found throughout the building.   July displays the GoArts juried works from 25 artists in a variety of medium.  Free WiFi, friendly staff, great collection of books and bulletin board with local happenings.   Bring in your coffee or lunch to enjoy in the Bistro while you meet or play board games.
  • Bergengren Credit Union, 257 Main St. www.docstoc.com/docs/72284899/THE-GIFT –   Frieze by Fenn Martin “The Gift”- celebrating the journey of the Bergengren through 75 years.
  • McLeod Gallery, 219 Main Street, Kirk Place. www.antigonishphotographersexhibit.com Antigonish Photographers Exhibit.  July and August.  “Scottish Ayres”.  Photography exhibit by APx.
  • Prissy Pig Café and Deli, 20 St. Andrew’s Street (corner of Main St) www.facebook.com/prissypigcafedeli – – Peter Jowett photography exhibit July and August.  Have lunch or a brunch from this great local food restaurant.

Starting from the Post Office end of town and heading East on the left side of the street:

  • The Tall and Small Café, 342 Main St.  The café expanded recently and now has ample seating room and a delicious vegetarian menu.  Changing exhibits of art and photography are displayed along the walls in both rooms.  July Exhibit – Ruth Young.
  • The Made in Nova Scotia Store – 324 Main Street  www.themadeinnovacotiastore.com A treasure trove of hand-made crafts from Nova Scotia.
  • Aphrodite Art and Fashion, 292 Main Street – www.aphroditeartandfashion.com Enjoy whimsical and elegant selection of art from Atlantic artists in a relaxed and enjoyable atmosphere.  Including works from Wayne Boucher, Ann Manuel and many others.
  • Andrew Murray.  www.antigonishculturealive.ca/aca-outstanding-artist-of-the-year-2011 See Andrew’s murals on several of the buildings along Main Street and his interior design of Cameron’s Jewelry.
  • Down to Earth Art Gallery and Fine Framing, 240 Main Street.    www.downtoearth.ca Featuring works by J. Franklin Wright, Alan Syliboy and others.
  • Lyghtesome Gallery, 166 Main Street. www.lyghtesome.ns.ca This gallery has been a mainstay of culture in Antigonish since 1975 and exhibits works from Linda Johns, Anna Syperek, Julia Redgrave and many others. A fine selection of original paintings, sculpture, prints, cards and works of art. The Summer Showcase of Gallery Artists July 6 — Aug 31 – “A Slice of Nova Scotia at its Visual Best”.  New and recent works by gallery artists. Special Feature: “Unheard Music”, Linda Johns’ newest ltd. ed. book

Slideshow of a few of the locations:

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Off Main and out of town:

  • St FX Art Gallery – Bottom floor, Bloomfield Center, St. Francis Xavier University.  The summer exhibit is from the permanent collection.
  • Old Barn Gallery.  Melanson Road, Pomquet (30 minutes east of Antigonish off Highway 104). www.facebook.com/OldBarnGalleryDecor Beautiful display of arts and antiques set in an old barn and surrounded by gorgeous flower gardens.
  • C.A.  MacLean A Matter of Tastes.  3931 Highway 7 (10 minutes from Antigonish) www.amatteroftastes.ca Featuring works by Vicki (V.L.) MacLean

Upcoming Art Events 2012

  • Gathering of the Arts.  GoArts 2012. July 9 – 30. www.antigonishculturealive.ca Peoples’ Place Library.  Exhibition of juried art work from 25 local artists from Antigonish Culture Alive. Opening reception July 9.
  • Art Ceilidh Studio Tour.  July 13 – 14.  www.facebook.com/events/241118522665990 Part of the Highland Games week celebrations.  Tours of artist galleries and studios in and around Antigonish.  Start your tour at Lyghtesome Gallery for maps and directions.
  • Antigonight: Art After Dark. September 21-22.  http://antigonightfest.tumblr.comNighttime participatory festival for all the arts, celebrating the rich arts community of northeastern Nova Scotia.
  • Antigonish International Film Festival.  October 19-20. www.antigonishfilmfest.org Over 40 documentary films.  Peoples’ Place and Empire Capitol Theatre.   Community Dinner and arts at the Prissy Pig Oct 20.

July in Antigonish an Arts Celebration. The Casket, June 26, 2012 by Richard MacKenzie

Directions

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Denise Davies is a travel writer, photographer, filmmaker and entrepreneur.  This article appeared in the Highland Heart, June 29.  www.highlandheart.ca

 

Grand Pré – Acadian History

 

 

Grand Pre church

Grand Pre church


Grand Pré is situated at the north east end of the Annapolis Valley.  It borders on the Minas Basin and the tidal lands of the Bay of Fundy.  The area was settled in the 1600s by French settlers from Port Royal who reclaimed the lands from the tides and made a fertile land.

Now we see the low meadowland and dikes and on the hills above, vineyards and wineries commanding a view of the area.

The history of Grand Pré is dramatic with the land being fought over by the English and French during the 1700s and the expulsion of the Acadians from their lands in 1755.  The story is well told in the multi-media centre at the  Parks Canada National Historic Site.  The grounds with the sweeping willow trees and wandering stream are peaceful and commemorate the deportation.  Henry Wadsworth Longfellow wrote the poem Evangeline to bring the story to light and the statue of Evangeline and bust of Longfellow are featured in the garden.

Sunset from Beach Breeze Motel Grand Pre

Sunset from Beach Breeze Motel Grand Pre

The church, built on the site of the 17th century Acadian village (Eglise Souvenir Memorial Church) depicts life in the village and scenes of the deportation.  Be sure to listen to the audio stories from the voices of 2 children.

The path off to the left of the church goes to the blacksmith forge with a lovely view of the dikes and fields below.  You can bike or walk along the dikes.

Just 10 minutes from Grand Pré National Historic Park there is a large and well kept campground and the lovely Beach Breeze Motel.  We stayed here and had a wonderful view of the sunset and sunrise over the vast changing tides of Fundy.

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Directions

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Peggy’s Cove

Peggy's Cove Lighthouse by Denise Davies

Peggy's Cove Lighthouse

Peggy’s Cove is a picturesque fishing village with a lighthouse that is one of the most photographed sites in Canada.

The village of Peggy’s Cove was originally settled in the 1700s as a fishing community.  Settlers also had cattle and did some farming in the small areas not covered with granite rocks.  The setting is beautiful but you can imagine the difficult life during the storms and winter.  This tiny community (2009 population: approx. 46) is a working fishing village and home of artists and artisans.

The weather is changeable – as anywhere in Nova Scotia.  Our visit was on a sunny spring day with a calm ocean.  However fog and storms are common and do be careful as you explore the granite rocks that you pay attention to the waves.   Bring layers and windbreakers.  During heavy seas and storms the waves crash up over the rocks.

The red and white lighthouse was built in 1915 and set out on a rocky point with views of St. Margaret’s Bay.  The entire area has large rounded granite slabs and it is fun to clamber over the rocks for spectacular ocean views and views of the village weather and safety permitting.

We enjoyed a delicious lunch at the Sou’Wester restaurant and gift shop which has a delicious selection of local seafood, salads, soups, burgers and local deserts such as Blueberry Grunt. The restaurant is open year round. The gift shop is a great place to browse for interesting art from local artists, photographs, clothing and gifts.

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The Visitor Information Center is open from May to October. Over 750,000 tourists visit Peggy’s Cove in a year – most during the tourist season.

A walk through the village is picturesque.  Homes of the fishermen, small arts and gift shops and the wharf are all set off by the ocean and the granite rocks of the area.   Be sure to see the 30M granite wall carving by William E. deGarthe depicting the fishermen and their families of Peggy’s Cove.  The deGarthe gallery is open during the May to October season.

Directions

The drive from the Halifax Armdale Rotary is 45 KM and passes lakes and coves along the way.  The road is winding and give yourself time to enjoy it.   You can return on a circle route passing the memorial for Swissair Flight 111 and then either continue on to Chester and Lunenberg or loop back to Halifax.

LINKS

Spring in Nova Scotia

 

 

Spring Thaw Port Hawkesbury Strait of Canso

Ahhh spring.  This year we had a March treat of 3 days in the mid 20s (centigrade).  The snow disappeared and you can see through the ice on the lakes and patches of clear water on areas that had been iced over.  Kids were out in their shorts and the teens were out sunning themselves and soaking up the rays.  What a treat to have the summer-like weather even though we knew it wouldn’t last.

The robins have arrived and some hardy plants have started raising their heads – hope they don’t get fooled and frozen at the early stage.

Robin Sign of Spring

Of course 2 days later the temperature is -4 Degrees C.  Quite a feat to know what to wear but layers are the answer.

Looking forward to enjoying the buds coming out on the trees, the crocuses and spring flowers arriving — and yes the odd snow flurries and blustery days thrown in there.  This IS Nova Scotia after all where the weather is a great topic of conversation and can change from one minute to the next.

Slideshow

Click the arrows to view the slideshow. Click caption to see the caption.

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Denise Davies is a photographer and travel writing living in Antigonish.